Cambridge in 60 Seconds: A city’s identity in jeopardy?
‘Cambridge has seen many strange sights. It has seen Wordsworth drunk, it has seen Porson sober. I am a greater scholar than Wordsworth and I am a greater poet than Porson. So I fall betwixt and between.’ – A. E. Housman
Strapping tour guides in straw hats glide their punts along the turbid waters of the river Cam into the shadows of turreted university buildings guarded by stony replicas of the scholars of old, emerald green grass reaches out resplendently beneath ornate window panes like nature’s royal carpet, willow trees dangle their leafy elbows across the water’s edge and intricately carved limestone bridges stretch from bank to bank like the river’s ancient sleeping servants. Flurries of cyclists with cupcakes in their baskets and book bags on their shoulders blaze past round churches, old museums and fire lit Tudor pubs whose homely seats once welcomed the bottoms of bright-eyed academics such as J.R.R. Tolkien, C.S. Lewis, Watson and Crick, Stephen Fry, Hugh Laurie, Rowan Atkinson and Emma Watson while tea shops no larger than your grandma’s front room and fairytale bookshops remain hidden away in the secret alcoves of cobbled alleyways- year upon year, more and more are attracted to the once small market town of Cambridge by its famously quaint charms.
Antique alchemy writings scraping at the secret to the elixir of life and a mathematical nail-free bridge built solely on science by Newton himself, a sky-high King’s College steeple tarnished with a toilet seat by the secretive student climbers of the night, a stone ball bridge sculpture sliced like a cake for the sake of a simple student bet, a trail from Cambridge right through to Oxford boasting Trinity College as its sole proprietor and a bridge of sighs adored by Queen Victoria and characterized by the fearful pre-exam students who have crossed its stony path- an infinite number of myths spread like wildfire from the lips of locals and though only a thimbleful may actually be true, they have succeeded in enveloping the city in an enigma enchanting to outsiders.
From market town to city, as well expected, it is not just Cambridge’s success and population that have grown in size; family run businesses have been exchanged with supermarkets, listless strings of chain shops and American cafés have cropped up where small town book shops, food and bicycle stores once boasted their wares while small scale shopping centres have in turn been replaced by their larger luxury counterparts. Despite the gaggles of tourists and their tripods that congregate in Cambridge for the high season, the local independent businesses for which the city is famed are facing extinction as multinationals like Starbucks, Costa, Primark and McDonald’s tighten their commercial grip on the streets of Cambridge.
The city is still home to the likes of H. Gee Electrical’s- an electrical emporium of plugs and fuses that for years on end have been served up in paper bags to loyal entrants by the eccentric Mr. Gee and his wife – and a myriad of locally run ethnic restaurants and stores that Mill Road has laid at one’s feet following the influx of international inhabitants; yet over 23 Cambridge pubs and numerous local organisations- such as 173 year old Howes Cycles of Cambridge run by five generations of the Howes family- have been forced to close in the past 5 years, or like the independent cinema the Arts Picture House, might soon well be.
Is Cambridge losing its scholarly charm and local niche market to chain shops, department stores and luxury shopping malls, or is the capitalist leeching of multinationals merely an exaggerated threat distorted by extremist left-wing anti-consumerist activists? Are tourism and corporate organisations causing the unique personality of England’s small towns to disintegrate under waves of brand names and logos, or should we delight in the economic ease and elevated quality of life they foster? Ought we revel in the liberty of a generation free to journey unharnessed to the corners of the earth in a way their forerunners only fantasized about, or should we rather fear the effects travel, tourism & temporary inhabitation have on travellers’ paths, where holidaymakers’ tracks and footprints lie somewhat longer than they ought?
‘Oxford gave the world marmalade and a manner, Cambridge science and a sausage’ – Anon.
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Great post. Thanks.
http://thaivillage72.wordpress.com
Unfortunately every Western town and city faces the same threat from chains and mega corporations. Rare and lucky and visionary is the community heart that can survive suburban shopping malls, coffee chains, and high rises and avoid freeways through its centre.
This is excellent. Well done. The photography is also very well done. Hugs, Barbara
I’ve never been to Cambridge, I’m a little blown away by how much like Oxford it is :s Ha!
A really thoughtful post! Sums up a lot of my unease wandering around Cambridge. Brill photography too.
Your great photos really bring Cambridge to life.
Laurie.
Interesting write up, how do these old towns keep their old world charm, yet cater to the world? I recently visited Stratford Upon Avon, and found they seemed to have the balance right, hope Cambridge manages it ready for a visit from me.
Jim
Beautiful, will be sure to drop in next time am in the UK
Clearly even those of ‘a certain age’ can still suffer growing pains at times. Here’s hoping Cambridge remains vibrant and vivacious in spite of the trials.
Very interesting. I suppose I must join the tourists for I still hope to see it one day!
“Globe Drifting” – I like that! What an interesting life you lead, thanks for sharing. Some similarities between us =
1) I am Hungarian / Austrian / Check / maybe a lot of gypsy too, raised in Budapest and immigrated to Canada at 17.
2) Been continent drifting since 1980 in a boat with a wife and German Shepherd Dogs. (Kids? No thanks.) Getting older but we are still on the boat, now icebound in Ontario.
Living on the edge but not too far out to be uncomfortable.
Ain’t life grand when you can make it into an adventure outside of the box….. Big Thumbs-Up To Ya!
You have an awesome blog.
I really enjoyed the photography. Excellent job. Will definitely add Cambridge to the list of places I need to go.
I love your site!! Thank you for the like……. I’m even more excited to get to Cambridge now.
Reblogged this on The Secret Diary of Anne Pank and commented:
What a lovely, lovely blog….. and with the photos of Cambridge here, I’m even more excited to get there!
Wonderful photography and thoughtful comments! You’ve really brought the modern Cambridge to life–yet given us a good sense of its history too. Thank you!
Really love your write ups! Thank you for the follow also. Appreciate it greatly! 🙂
Hi there! I’ve nominated you for the Liebster Award — a fun way to connect with other blogs! All the best! 🙂
http://bumblefritz.com/2014/01/28/swimming-with-the-big-fish-now/
I’m really glad you stopped by my blog as it introduced me to your site. Your writing is really beautiful and these photos are stunning. Great post 🙂
I’ve been meaning to get over there to take a picture of Isaac Newton’s cat flaps. Wonderful place, as is Oxford. Thanks for a lovely tour.
What an incredible piece about one of the most esteemed schools in the world! I’ve never been to England but a bunch of stuff I love is from there. Great photos, great writing, great work!
Really cool post and amazing photos gonna make sure I visit
What a shame. Cambridge was one of my favorite haunts when I was stationed at R.A.F. Lakenheath back in ’76-’77.
as cold and gloomy london seems to be from your pics, you are actually making me miss the city 😦 would love to return to london in near future. i really miss the food market and book shops.
As a Cambridge local I can definitely see a shift, with the old shops being slowly replaced by the chains you mentioned – it’s a big difference to twenty years ago when I was a child. That’s why it’s so important to keep going to the independent shops and appreciating their charm as I fear they may disappear one day too sadly. Really interesting post and photos too 🙂
It’s the story of all our cities, isn’t it? But as your photographs display extremely well, the real Cambridge is alive and kicking. Beautiful as ever. 🙂
Frankly, most of the time, I am ‘Oh-so-tired’ to read much. But going through Your blog, and the photos Your present, freshens one. Thank You. Keep up the good work.
Just found your blog! Great piece on Cambridge, covering lots of avenues. Was there in 1996 and bought some great early science books (including Isaac Newton) at the venerable G.David bookstore. I hope the shop has not succumbed to the commercialization which you so vividly portray. Thanks for following my blog!
Reblogged this on CJBPhotography.
Very nice writing, and even better photography!
I grew up in Cambridge, and left when I was 16. Thank you for this delicate glimpse – back into my childhood!